Friday, 7 February 2014

24 climbing days

So alternating between sessions over the next 24 indoor climbing sessions I'll be incorporating some new (to me) training methods in my day time sessions with Phoebe as I think they'll work well with a toddler in tow. These are lifted from Tom Newberrys article on Rock and Run (for the full article click here)
Points mean prizes
A concept pinched from the Hueco Rock Ranch Rodeo; this workout is good for measuring your base level. Try to do it at least once a month, keeping a record of progress. It will be easy towards the end of a setting cycle, when you have the problems wired. The session is geared towards bouldering although points can be converted across for routes. The climb’s V-grade is the point value but only your 6 highest scoring problems in one session count. For example, if you did V4, V6, V4, V4, V5, V5 you would score 28. You can have as many attempts as you like, but only a successful ascent will count towards your score. Test yourself and go for it, see what the highest score you can get is, then try to beat it next month.
Rookie: 10 – 24 points
Improver: 25 – 34 points
Sender: 35 – 44 points
Dark horse: 45 – 59 points
Pro: 60+ points

If you wish to focus more on endurance an alternative version is to set a target, say 60 points. Then time how long it takes to gain that many points. Whether you do 30 V2s, 12 V5s or a mixture of grades it doesn’t matter.

Project Simulator
This session is great for gaining power whilst maintaining your endurance. After warming up, pick a project, any project! Make sure it’s hard enough that you know you’d have to work on it for at least one full session. Now, project the problem for 20 minutes, make sure you rest plenty, ~1 to 3 minutes between goes. Once the 20-minute round is up, you have 20 minutes to climb as many problems as possible; pick problems about 3 grades below that of your project. So, say you pick a V6 project as you know it will be challenging; work this for 20 minutes. Then climb as many V3s as possible for 20 minutes (aim for a minimum of 7 problems). Once the second 20 minutes is up, you have completed one round; aim to complete three rounds altogether (2 hours climbing in total). Your only rests will come be in between attempts on the project.

So the full training schedule for the next 24 sessions is below:

No comments:

Post a Comment